Denon MCX8000 Mapping

[Activated Soundwave]

I forgot to ask.

Do the channel meter LEDs work?
Do the master meter LEDs work? I am particularly interested in the master meter because there are two meter bars for Right and Left but the documentation only listed one parameter address.

Yes they are working, but having the green go into one yellow which is technically about perfect allowing a second maybe third yellow at the max for tracks that are all mastered equally too todays pro standard, but all in all 1-2 yellow is the best max to maintain for a clean mix.
But in relation to the gain it is not balanced very well for some one that is technical in the mix its poor, as when the CH Led are at the two yellow the gain should be around half way up if not a little over that, but in this case the gain is just short of 1/4 way up if not less, so the reason being this does not give you any headroom everything is running really hot and this has many downsides, because although gain is to balance the overall mix, it is also best used as another fader of sorts as their is never a mix I do without consistent use and adjustments through out, quite technical with many reasons to have much more flexibility and everything balance around half way if not a little over most probably as the tracks/songs I tested are hot themselves but a good test track/s.

will post again in a few minutes need to second look the master LED again.

There is no room for adjustment on this. The channel LEDs is the measured output that Cross have for each channel before the crossfader. The master meter is the sum of all the channel levels as measured and output to the controller by Cross after the crossfader. Also notice that the master meter LEDs are a shorter strip as compared to the channel meter so the ranges are different. I was just concern that I at least got them to light up. The concern with the master meter is due to the right and channel indicator since the documentation for the controller only provided one address. Normally when the documentation provides only one address the physical controller doesn't have to meter strips.

please ignore part of this next post i have already written, but still good info and i include the info you do require. see the Green font.

[Activated Soundwave]

I forgot to ask.

Do the channel meter LEDs work?
Do the master meter LEDs work? I am particularly interested in the master meter because there are two meter bars for Right and Left but the documentation only listed one parameter address.

Yes they are working, but having the green go into one yellow which is technically about perfect allowing a second maybe third yellow at the max for tracks that are all mastered equally too todays pro standard, but all in all 1-2 yellow is the best max to maintain for a clean mix.
But in relation to the gain it is not balanced very well for some one that is technical in the mix its poor, as when the CH Led are at the two yellow the gain should be around half way up if not a little over that, but in this case the gain is just short of 1/4 way up if not less, so the reason being this does not give you any headroom everything is running really hot and this has many downsides, because although gain is to balance the overall mix, it is also best used as another fader of sorts as their is never a mix I do without consistent use and adjustments through out, quite technical with many reasons to have much more flexibility and everything balance around half way if not a little over most probably as the tracks/songs I tested are hot themselves but a good test track/s.

will post again in a few minutes need to second look the master LED again.

There is no room for adjustment on this. The channel LEDs is the measured output that Cross have for each channel before the crossfader. The master meter is the sum of all the channel levels as measured and output to the controller by Cross after the crossfader. Also notice that the master meter LEDs are a shorter strip as compared to the channel meter so the ranges are different. I was just concern that I at least got them to light up. The concern with the master meter is due to the right and channel indicator since the documentation for the controller only provided one address. Normally when the documentation provides only one address the physical controller doesn't have to meter strips.

Okay will have to read this tomorrow, so please ignore part of this next post i have already written, but still good info and i include the info you do require.

master LED are working, but after testing various suitable tracks, both left and right are precise when really more often than not you will always see slight various in levels from left to right which I am guessing is what you are thinking but I would need to spend more time to test with many more tracks old and new especially the breaks that may have some slight/stereo difference so far this is don't see and it is a little worrying, but I doubt what I am hearing is mono, it sounds pretty much true stereo, I can delve into that some more tomorrow, although it may be because the led are few and hence these differences in the stereo field do not show up.

what you will be wanting to know is that I tested all led at exact same level at 1 yellow bar baring in mind and forgiving the wider scope of each bar, so I balanced all at one bar and also adjusted the master level at one bar as even as I could tell visually, and now all levels are balanced equally I go to the master LED and master levels In relation to the master LED this master level pot need to be set higher same as the scenario with the CH LED and gain, same thing, across the board all these levels and gains /levels need adjustment if this is possible, but by any standards all the pots need to be centered much higher. not sure how you would achieve this presuming its just the LED need taking down much more in the coding, so the gain etc appears more centred!!!!!!!
I say centred but to be precise now I think on it with the tracks I used and them being hot PRO mastering levels I would like to see the gain at 2 dashes over center in comparison to this LED levels you have set , but you at your end guessing on this half way to just short of 3/4 for the modern average going up too the hottest max. we can work on this as we go, to get it perfect it will take some further tests in the future, but best kept to only one person initially testing unless we all could be sure we had the exact same test audio.

Now also the master level LED does not alter when I adjust the master level pot it alters the sound level but not the LED the master LED remains at a constant although pretty certain its on equal par with the CH LED
(baring in mind my test tracks and I know how to balance all levels perfectly as I excel in this area) I am very fussy about my levels and perfecting my mixing since about 1986 nothing worse than a mix where all sounds muffled or distorted especially in a club .

but i would recommend tomorrow I also test out the different audio card settings! although not so important overall as I currently have the asio audio card set to duel audio and have GUI cue mix all the way right - as with the MCX cue/master mix so I can totally count on the MCX controls to mix between master and cue levels. so GUI settings within Cross is Cue all the way right and the mix all the way left with main level all way right as I like to keep the GUI main level at max in relation to a controllers audio interface I have my reason that make sense without going into more technicality but it does allow for better overall balancing on the controller itself max is max if you get what i mean.

Lastly after stopping the playing deck, the master LED goes down a bar or two but sticks at about -8 for left and -5 for the right (issue in its self for you) from my limited understanding in the coding you do this ending LED position seem like its got a stereo variation as it should,(but I can not be 100% certain this ending position is in relation to any of this and not just some randomness in the code)

I hope I have not added too much info just trying to cover all aspects I think more or less relevant

[Activated Soundwave]

pity the controller is not going to be balanced as i hoped, but hay!!!! I am experienced enough to still be okay limitations are just that.

[FigDJ]

Test 11 completed, all exactly as described before, all okay and working well.

So this is no longer True
On deck 1
Any number of pads lit up for the locators. When you press Shift + pad to delete the locator (cue point) the LED does not go out but the locator is deleted. Is that correct? Then if you press the #1 deck select button the LEDS go out correctly?
Then the lights turn off when the shift button is used.

If so , here is the next test with the same file.
Deck 1
CUE MODE with some locator already set.
Press ROLL
Does the ROLL MODE button lights up?

While in this mode does pressing a pad changes the locators.

Reset the conditions and repeat the test, however this time press the ROLL MODE twice. Same results?

Still need results for this one before moving forward.

[Activated Soundwave]

Deck 1
CUE MODE with some locator already set.
Press ROLL
Does the ROLL MODE button lights up? Yes for its first function it lights up as expected in this case its the light blue.

While in this mode does pressing a pad changes the locators. Yes locators change/skip from one to another when in use as expected.


Reset the conditions and repeat the test, however this time press the ROLL MODE twice. Same results? yes same results for this second roll function.

[FigDJ]

Deck 1
CUE MODE with some locator already set.
Press ROLL
Does the ROLL MODE button lights up? Yes for its first function it lights up as expected in this case its the light blue.

While in this mode does pressing a pad changes the locators. Yes locators change/skip from one to another when in use as expected.


Reset the conditions and repeat the test, however this time press the ROLL MODE twice. Same results? yes same results for this second roll function.

Thank you. That completes the test for hardware switching.
Moving forward I will have to use
1. In&Out mod(ShiftLogic#) (Logic) or
2. In&Out mod(ShiftSelector) (Modifier)

Choice #1
Going into a pad mode like ROLL or SAMPLER will be OK but to go from SAMPLER to say ROLL mode or CUE mode the SAMPLER mode button will have to be pressed again to turn off this mode.

Example:
Current mode = ROLL mode.
Desired Mode = SAMPLER
Actions = Press ROLL to turn off that mode and then press SAMPLER to turn on SAMPLER.

Choice #2
Going into a pad mode like ROLL or SAMPLER will be OK. Jumping between modes will only require he user to press the button for that mode. You can go from CUE, to ROLL then to SAMPLER and back to CUE just by pressing the mode buttons.
The caveat will this choice is that when a mode is changed, it changes for all decks at the same time.
So if you are using CUE mode on deck 1 and now want to use ROLL mode on 2. You must press ROLL mode button. If then you want to use CUE mode on deck 1 then you'll find that deck 1 is also in ROLL mode and you must press CUE to use it.

Which one is better, I think #2 is better. Let me know.

[Activated Soundwave]

thinking choice 1, okay its a few extra press switches but it will still leave the option to have individual modes per deck, which is always best if you are good with the trickery, But choice 2 is more convenient and the process is a expected but all decks mirror their modes, and overall it leaves us with limitations.

So based on this I would have to still go with choice 1 and the switching should not take long to get used to, and all are at close quarters so not a big issue ,From intent to hand to eye coordination should eventually become second nature, so in this case the extra pushes/on/off is not really an issue because flexibility is most important,

Choice 1 for the best it is, would the Colour of the mode button switching be relevant and reflect these extra on/off pushes ? just as I can not figure out if or how you could do this as each mode button has two functions so that is 2X on/off how would that be reflected in the mode button colour change meaning we only have 2 colours on a mode button but 4 pushes in all ? or am I over thinking this ?

[FigDJ]

MCX8000Test12.mappings

OK TEST12

Using GUI
Load track with some Locators already assigned on deck 1
MODE= CUE Mode
Pads should light up according to locators already set.
Play the track

On the controller

PRES ROLL Mode
Did ROLL Mode button lit up?
What happen to the LEDs on the pads?
Did they turned off.

PRESS ROLL again
Did ROLL Mode button turned off?
What happen to the LEDs on the pads?
Did they turned back on.

PRESS ROLL again
Did ROLL Mode button turned off?
Press an hold pad
Did a loop started?
Did the LED for the pad that press turned on?

Release the pad
Did the LED for the pad that press turned off?

Press ROLL
did the LEDs light up according to locators.

[dj eazy]

Thank you guys for putting the mcx8000 on notice and trying to get it to work. I was about to sell mine. I think option 2 is best for ease of functions. Can you upload one of each? I have another question about the mappings, from what I have read so far, it seems the biggest issues and conflicts happens when mapping all four decks, but what if it was only 2 decks (3 and 4), working as software decks 1 and 2, so hardware wise, deck 1 and 2 would be for direct hard drive use. Is this possible and if so, what mapping should i start with in order to try and modify?

[FigDJ]

Thank you guys for putting the mcx8000 on notice and trying to get it to work. I was about to sell mine. I think option 2 is best for ease of functions. Can you upload one of each? I have another question about the mappings, from what I have read so far, it seems the biggest issues and conflicts happens when mapping all four decks, but what if it was only 2 decks (3 and 4), working as software decks 1 and 2, so hardware wise, deck 1 and 2 would be for direct hard drive use. Is this possible and if so, what mapping should i start with in order to try and modify?

Option 2 is much less complicated to getting the LEDs to work correctly. I have to see TEST #12 results to determine the best option.
The problem is not with mapping the 4 decks, all those functions and LEDs are done. The problem lies in the performance pads as they do not have hardware switching like the Pioneer DDj series and others brands like Reloop.
The MCX8000 lack the switching hardware therefore the software mapping must compensate for that which makes programmed LED responses much more complicated.